Coyote Gulch

I have made the trip to Coyote gulch four times now. There are several reason why this is one of my favorite backpacking trips. When I was a senior in high school my friends and I chose to go to Coyote Gulch for spring break; it was our first of many trips. It’s was a very memorable trip, first of all I had to quit my job at Maddox restaurant just to go; on top of that several things did not go as planned, despite our extensive planning:
1) On our way down we missed our exit and had to do a U-turn on the free way to avoid what would have been a major detour and delay.
2) The cooler we packet with our sandwich items and drinks was void of the lunch meats; they were packet continently in the refrigerator at my parents.
3) On the first day of the hike we took a wrong turn and hiked three miles up the wrong canyon.
4) I carried the first aid kit. We ended up not needing it, but my packing job was not very methodical and the first aid kit rubbed against my back the whole time creating a big bruise. I should have been smart enough to rearrange it, but I was more focused on moving forward.
5) There is 100-ft rock slab that slopes at 45 degree angle that is an exit out of the gulch. As we took this climb out my friend Jordan started sliding right down towards me. I panicked and said a really quick prayer sound something like “Shoot, Heavenly Father help.” Just as I braced for impact and could feel my heart pounding in my chest Jordan came to a slow stop just two feet in front of me.
6) The last two miles of the hike was hard on everyone since we were all out of water and hiking through the desert in the hot sun.
7) We had two vehicles: one parked at the beginning and end of the hike. At the end of the hike Darrin drove Steve to get his van. As we waited we all got in a furious rage as we saw only one car returning. Luckily it was only to get the keys.
8) The final insult came as we were driving out on the washboard road. About half-way through this road the back windshield on Darrin’s’ trailblazer rattled off. This took all our combine ingenuity to rig a tension rope configuration to secure it back on.

That trip was nine years ago. Since then I have learned that it is impossible to be prepared for the all the snags that can hinder the trip. However, planning for these trips have become more proficient—before it took a lot of meetings, this time it just took a few phone calls and an email. Also, I have learned you must keep going despite any snags along the way.



This time was a great trip. It was just Nate Clark and me. We drove down on Friday, May 15, in the morning and we drove straight there. We stopped a couple of time to take pictures of Escalante National Park and we also stopped in the town of Escalante to eat at one of the best burger joints.


There is a 40 mile wash-board road that leads to the beginning of the hike. We were stopped momentarily when we came to a part in the road where it the sand looked like the consistency of a sand trap and there was one vehicle that was actually stuck. We waited a few minutes and witnessed the car getting towed out by an old hippy wearing only cut-offs and driving an old Toyota truck with a bumper sticker that said “Kill your TV”.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

We made it to the beginning of the hike and started hiking around 5 PM.

Can you see Stevens Arch? This is where we dropped down into the gulch.

It is tradition now to take the same “wrong turn,” as in the first time I took the trail with my friends, towards Steven’s arch. The camping spots that way are secluded from others backpackers. Less than a mile from my favorite camping spot the water got too deep and too challenging to hike to. At one point my shoes got stuck in the mud and I had to dive in to dig them out. We did find a great camping spot though—well after bush-whacking through thick ferns that lined the canyon walls.

That night, after I took a refreshing bath in the river to wash off all the black mud, we set up camp and fixed our backpacking meals; once again a gourmet meal miles away from any civilization. My pasta primavera, even by backpacking standards, was bland and brittle but it was nourishing. On the other hand, the freeze dried Neapolitan ice cream was as satisfying and delicious! I have also discovered another great snack to take backpacking—Starburst, they are delicious, provide energy and they do not melt too easily.

The night was hot; it didn’t cool down until about 4 AM, That’s about the time that Nate took this spectacular photo just outside our tent door.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

The morning wasn’t any better than the night. The bright-hot sun had forced me to get out of the tent after a mildly miserable night’s sleep. Neither Nate nor I had much of a desire to make breakfast in the morning so we just packet up out stuff and headed out.


For those who aren’t acquainted with Nate let me fill you in. Nate is the outdoors guru; I use to think that I was a lover and protector of the outdoors till I would go on these excursions with Nate. On one camping trip, before we left, he dragged all of us to another camping spot, pulled out a trash bag and got us all to clean up the area. This trip was no different; he would make several stops to either take a photo of nature of pick up trash. At one point I saw him veer off into some vegetation and pull out a white rapper and with a spark of humor stat: “I declare this tampon wrapper property of Nate Clark.” He even provided for me something called a “wag bag,” a wag bag is used for the use and carrying of human waste. He taught me that the sandy-desert areas are not proper places to leave your waste because it doesn’t decompose as easily.

Nate’s fidelity to outdoors saved the trip. Less than 20 minutes into the hike Saturday morning, as we were scrambling over some rocks, a boulder rolled off one rock and over Nate’s right pinky toe—dislocating it. The trip was over; well that’s what Nate said. Honestly I was in disbelief, Coyote Gulch is not a destination it is a journey, and we haven’t even begun. We decided to hike to the closest exit point and then decide whether to leave Coyote Gulch or to keep on moving. We weren’t very far from this point (the “wrong turn”) and when we got there Nate said, profoundly, that his toe is going to hurt one way or the other—so we started the journey.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

Coyote Gulch

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

Hiking through Coyote Gulch is a sensation for the body and mind. The body gets a great workout with fresh air and the mind is enticed by the ascetics that the canyon has to offer. The bottom of the gulch is lined with a stream that is shallow and gets baked by the sun all day; this makes the water very warm.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

The first feature we saw was what I like to call the shower. The water is very refreshing with the chill that is much different from the warm water we were use to hiking through.


The first arch that we saw, besides Steven’s Arch, was Cliff Arch. Cliff Arch is different from the other arches in that it can be walked by and not even noticed without a keen awareness. It also unique in that it hangs on the side of a cliff as if it is a waterfall that has been petrified.

Cliff Arch

This year was the first year that I finally was mesmerized by Indian ruins and pictographs. This is more difficult to find than Cliff Arch. One year we thought that we had found the ruins, but I now know that was basically just a pile of rocks. To get to the Indian ruins, it is best to drop your backpack and climb up a dirt hill to a flat area that is sheltered by a rock wall that slants over it creating a natural 300-ft type awning. The authenticity of the artifacts and pictographs are astounding and humbling.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

Coyote Natural Bridge is placed as if the apex of the hike. The placement of it suggests that an architect had designed it to be the only chance of making it through the gulch, like the walls closing in and before all hope is lost a passage way is offered. The bridge is a sound edifice and it is an inspiring monument to behold.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

Pass the bridge there is natural spring offering sweet and refreshing water—to an almost certainly dry Camelbak.

Just above the spring is most certainly one of the most spectacular arches that must be seen in person—Jacob Hamblin’s Arch. The structure of it suggests that it is firm, immovable and willing to withstand the test of time. It is not a big arch, as far as Utah arches go, but the massive rock above it is probably the thickest around.

Photo courtesy of Nate Clark.

The last part of the hike is 100-ft climb out of on the 45 degree sandstone. It had been awhile since I attempted the climb, and I had underestimated the intensity of it. This part requires some knowledge of rock climbing and strong nerves. This time was tricky, there were several times were I really thought I was not going to make it. Fortunately Nate had thirty feet of rope and a vast knowledge of canyoneering and he was able to hoist my pack up with ease.

I took this photo when I though I was going to die.

Once we got out it was about a 2.3 mile hike back to our vehicle. Since we only brought one car we could not do the shuttle system. This part of the hike was not bad; the sun was lowering in the sky creating an orange glow in atmosphere. Nate and I had a competition here to see if his compass system was more accurate to my GPS; results: compass was more accurate. We did have to step lightly around holes that could be current snake holes, we had to jump a chain-link fence and Nate made sure that I did not step on any cryptobiotic soil.

Right after we climbed out.

Hiking through the desert.

Cryptobiotic soil.

The car greeted us with some ice cold drinks and a few snacks. We drove home through the night. I finally got home at 5 AM and I was disappointed to find out that I was locked out and I had to sleep in my car.

Coyote Gulch was once again a great trip. The same spot and route but as always I have new stories and that internal feeling of satisfaction and rebirth.